The Ost with the Most…

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Hello Fellow Cheese Travelers!

As March is “Women’s History Month”, I thought I would share with you the story of a celebrated cheesemaker from Norway, Anne Haav (sometimes spelled Hov). Many people may not recognize her name, but the cheese that she created is recognized around the world. In 1863, Anne created Gudbrandsdalost, but many people know it by its common name, Gjetost.

This cheese may be a simple one, but I am sure that what I am about to share might surprise even the most experienced cheese lover.

Gjetost has a unique (and celebrated) history. So pull up a “Stol” and grab your “Ostehøvel.” because we are about to dig into this sweet, carmel-y, creation.

Early Years

Anne about 1868 – Photo: Daily Scandinavian 

Anne was born on 6 January, 1846 in the town of Skåbu, Norway. By the time she was five years old, her parents had purchased the dairy farm, Solbrå. By the time that the Agricultural Census was taken in 1865, the dairy farm had grown to twenty-seven dairy cattle, seven sheep, five pigs, and four horses. This dairy farm created butter within the community.

Creating Something New

Life on a dairy farm included many jobs: preserving the milk, churning butter, and making cheese. One day, while boiling down the whey from cheese making, Anne tried adding cream it. After cooking it for several hours, the consistency had thickened, and after letting it cool, Anne was able to knead in and place it into awaiting molds. After sharing her creation with family and neighbors, she realized that she had created something special – Gudbrandsdalost cheese was born the Summer of 1863.

 

Economic Tough Times

Norway suffered through devastating poverty in the 1870 and 80’s. As a result, the dairy farmers of Gudbrandsdalen banded together to create a dairy cooperative, and Anne, not wanting to deliver milk to far off villages, decided to start making Gudbrandsdalost Cheese full time in her own kitchen, but now she started adding cream and goat’s milk. Shopkeepers in the Gudbrandsdal valley started selling the cheese for Anne. Its popularity grew far beyond the boundaries of this tiny village, and soon, throughout all of Norway. 

Royal Recognition

It was about this time in my research that I read that “Anne’s cheese was recognized (and awarded) by the King of Norway”…but I needed proof, and I knew right where to research!…The Royal Court of Norway!

The Royal Court of Norway put me in touch with the National Archives of Norway, which forwarded me two letters…One typed, one hand-written.

Below is a translation of the typed letter:

Office of the Prime Minister of Norway

His Majesty The King,

Odelsting (Farming Parliamentary Representative) President, Hans O. Skurdal, has recommended that I arrange for Anne Haav in Nord-Fron to be awarded an award as the inventor of "Gudbrandsdal cheese".

The distinctive feature of this curd cheese is that the whey is mixed with cream during processing, so that the cheese has a significant fat content and better consistency, taste and durability than the usual curd cheese. This procedure has been extremely important for Gudbrandsdalen and for dairy operations as a whole. Gudbrandsdals cheese is now considered the country's second most important cheese.

I have asked Mr. Skurdal for some further information, and have received a letter from him dated 17 December 1932, which I allow myself to enclose.

The dairy inspector has stated the following: "I am of the opinion that Anne Haav was the first to start making this cheese, which has since been named "Gudbrandsdals cheese", and I allow myself to support Mr. Hans O. Skurdal's recommendation that she be awarded a public appreciation for this.”

Accordingly, I allow myself to recommend that Anne Haav be awarded. H. M. The King's Medal of Merit in silver.

Oslo, 29 December 1932

Jens Hundseid, Prime Minister of Norway (1932–33)

The typed letter may have been easy to translate, but the second letter, a hand-written letter in Norwegian, would be more challenging to translate. Who should I call to get this translated?...An embassy?... A Norwegian Society?...No, I felt that needed to go right to the source and that is when I realized that my friend, Jessica Keahey, owner of Sweet Freedom Cheese from Bentonville, Arkansas, just happened to vacationing with her husband in Norway!

I emailed her the document, and she was on it like any good investigative foreign journalist. She checked with a cheese shop, then a library, but ultimately she went right to the best source, Even Solbraa, the current owner of Anne Haav’s original farmstead, Solbråsetra in Gålå, Norway.

While the handwritten letter ultimately did not give any additional details, the research from Jessica helped uncover a Norwegian book that was written in 1988, celebrating the 125 Anniversary of this cheese’s creation.

The book, Gudbrandsdalosten 125 år by Jens Sundt reported the events following this letter to the King:

“Odelsting President, Hans O. Skurdal was on hand to present the medal and gave a speech at the dinner in which he thanked her for the effort she had made. It was not too much to say that by her efforts she had saved the valley's economy from disaster in the 1880s. He pointed out that there is hardly anyone who has deserved such an award better than Anne Haav. He then pinned the medal to her chest with the words: Wear it with health!

Anne was grateful for the medal and recognition. She also thanked her relatives and friends for welcoming her.

Wholesaler, Knut Kjorstad and Anne Hov's niece, both thanked Mr. Skurdal on behalf of the family and read a number of telegrams, including one from the Gudbrandsdalen's cheese association.

For those who were present, the experience will not soon be forgotten.

Minutes in "Gudbrandsdolen" 30 Januar 1933.”

Cooperative Dairy is Formed

In 1928, TINE – The Norwegian Dairy Products Cooperative was formed. Now recognized as one of the largest cooperatives, produces this many versions of this now famous cheese:  

·      Gjetost (or Geitost) – Geit (Goat) and Ost (Cheese). Simply a description of its ingredients. Made from Pasteurized Goat’s Cream & Milk.

·      Brunost – Brun (Brown) and Ost (Cheese). While this is a good description of appearance, it can refer to cheeses made with Goat’s milk, Cow’s milk, or a blend of the two.

·      Gudbrandsdalsost -  Gud (God), Brand (Fire), Sdal (Valley), and Ost (Cheese). This is the original that really speaks to its origin. Made from Pasteurized Goat’s Milk, Pasteurized Cow’s Cream & Milk.

·      Innherred – Sweet and extra dark

·      Bestemorost – Sweet and extra dark. Grandmother Cheese

·      Heidal – Named after the parish of Heidal in the Gudbrand Valley

·      Misvær – Has a light, almost yellow color

These should not be confused with *Fløtemysost (or Fløytemysost) – Fløtemys (Cream) and Ost (Cheese) or Primost – Prim (Prime) and Ost (Cheese) – Fløtemysost has a dense consistency and is made from cow’s milk which has a milder flavor than Gjetost. Made from Whey, Pasteurized Cow’s Milk, and Pasteurized Cream; Primost has the same ingredients, but is softer and spreadable.

No matter what you call it, these fall under the Mysost – Myse (Whey) and Ost (Cheese) (or Whey cheese category).

Here is a list of all of the styles that they produce.

How to enjoy it

While Norwegians might give you the serving suggestions to enjoy it with Apple Pie; as a Caramel Sauce; in Panna Cotta; as a Fondue; shaved over Muffins, Scones & Breakfast Breads; it’s the people of Korea that have discovered how shaving this over ice cream can elevate the flavors to a whole new level. Read about it here.

Photo courtesy of Jessica Keahey of Sweet Freedom Cheese 

My many thanks to Jessica Keahey of Sweet Freedom Cheese for sharing her magical photos of Norway and sharing with me the story of Solbråsetra, and how they are working to keep the story of Anne Haav, and her 1863 creation (in Anne’s original farmhouse) alive for the next 100 years!  

Until next time,

Trevor, your Cheese Traveler