The Spice Trade…

Photo courtesy of Amazon

I guess that I have always had a thing for spices…My first job at a cheese counter was an awakening, not just for the hundreds of cheeses they carried that expanded my sense of taste and smell, but also my sense of wonder. This shop was also known for carrying gourmet foods (mostly from Europe) and exotic spices. By today’s standards they may not have seemed exotic, but for that time in history, they were ground breaking. Where did they come from?...How were they used??...I was intrigued and had to learn more. 

My next big encounter was the Specialty Food Association’s Winter and Summer Fancy Food Shows. I was lucky enough to start going to the Winter one, which is always held in January in San Francisco. Later, when I became a Specialty Cheese Broker, I was able to finally attend the Summer Fancy Food Show which is always held in New York in June. While both of these shows blew my mind, it was the New York one that had a true international feel to it and it made me realize that New York is still very much a global trading hub.

The National Restaurant Association and culinary research groups are always looking for the next new flavor trend…cheesemakers are no different and are trying to keep up, while adding new flavors that may speak to cultural and heritage cooking.

Recently I visited a new cheese counter that had opened up in my area, the Castro Valley Marketplace, seemed to not only have a great cheese counter, but an amazing spice shop known as Oaktown Spice Shop. Their staff was friendly and helpful and we were able to get into some great discussions about the use of different spices, such as Urfa Biber peppers from Southeast Turkey, and a new blend that they made up known as Umami Sea Salt. I also picked up a great book from them – The Science of Spice, by Dr. Stuart Farrimond (which included the Periodic Table of Spices above).

Since spice (or flavor) seems the be the “Fifth Element” in cheese (right after milk, starter culture, rennet, and salt), I thought that I would look at how some cheese producers have used these to add a new flavor profile to their cheeses.

Mustard Seed Gouda

Mustard Seed Gouda by Beemster – Studded with mustard seeds throughout this creamy Gouda. Great on ham sandwiches, or melted over cauliflower. Imported from Holland, aged just over 1 month.

Marieke Gouda with Foenegreek – If you are not familiar with Foenogreek (or Fenugreek) it is a Middle Eastern herb that is quite common in East Indian cooking. It has a slightly sweet, toasted flavor that some have described as a cross between celery and maple syrup. No matter how you try and describe it, your taste buds will describe it as delicious!...No wonder this cheese was an American Cheese Society award winner! Proudly produced in Thorpe, WI.

Peppercorns – They may be one of the oldest spices, but they still work in cheese. Here are two great examples: Rumiano Peppercorn Dry Jack (shown left) made in Cresent City, CA. Made with cow’s milk; Pecorino with Peppercorns, comes to us from Sardinia. It is made with sheep’s milk and aged over five months.

Harissa Fontina – Produced by Yellow Door Creamery. This domestically produced cheese from Wisconsin has a higher moisture content like Danish Fontina, then it is hand rubbed with Harissa Spices. Not familiar with Harissa?...Harissa is a Tunisian chili pepper paste, the main ingredients of which are roasted red peppers (Baklouti peppers or serrano peppers), spices and herbs such as garlic paste, caraway seeds, coriander seeds, cumin and olive oil to carry the oil-soluble flavors.

Alisios® is a cheese that is named after the trade winds that blow through the Canary Islands. This cheese is made on the island of Fuerteventura with milk from Canary Island cows (70%) and goats (30%), and is covered in sweet pimentón from Murcia. It is brothy with toasted notes and has a sweetness from the paprika. The goat’s milk adds a slight zing to the creamy paste. Alisios® won a Super Gold at the 2016 World Cheese Awards. Aged 90 days.

Another popular way to infuse flavors into the cheese is by starting with semi-soft cheeses, then applying a rub to the outside and giving it time to marinate. Beehive Cheese created one of the best in this style – Barely Buzzed. They start with a wheel of their Promontory, then add a rub of local espresso and lavender, then seal it and age it for 6 to 8 months. First created back in September of 2006, this cheese has gone on to win 20 major awards. 

Leyden Cheese from Holland with cumin and caraway seeds, Havarti from Denmark with Dill, Pinna Brigante from Sardinia with Saffron, Jack-O-Pumpkinseed from Switzerland, the list could go on and on…

I enjoy making my own herbed cheeses by rolling fresh Chèvre in chopped rosemary, thyme, black pepper, and sea salt. Definitely a crowd-pleaser.

Merry Christmas to you my loyal readers…Here is looking to a bright 2021.

All my best,

Trevor