Black Radish Cheese??
/Hello Fellow Cheese Travelers!
Today’s story easily could have been called “From Ohio, with Love”, but then you may not have read this far…
While I have seen many interviews with cheese makers over the last year, I wanted to take a different approach and write a story about cheesemongers and the important role they have in our cheese industry. They are the last set of hands that touch the piece of cheese before it makes its way into the customer’s basket.
Without further ado, please allow me to introduce John and Anne Reese of Black Radish Creamery.
I first became acquainted with Black Radish Creamery back in February 2019. Being a huge fan of Food Halls and all they had to offer, I was excited to learn that I was returning to the Columbus, Ohio area for work, which meant that I could once again get a chance to stop by the Historic North Market and visit Michael Kast who ran a cheese shop there called Curds & Whey. Upon entering the Market, Curds & Whey was no longer there!...but in its place was a beautiful new cheese shop called Black Radish Creamery.
Photo courtesy of Black Radish Creamery
While Black Radish Creamery was certainly new, it had a cool vintage look to it that made it seem like it could have been there for decades. Anne was working at the cheese counter that day. She told me about the history of the shop, about her husband John (the cheese maker), as well as some of the events that they did throughout the year. I tried several of their cheeses, but settled on their “Charlie’s Legend” Clothbound Cheddar.
This was certainly something new….A cheese shop that made their own cheese! Oh sure, I have seen plenty of roadside dairies that sold their own cheese…but nothing like this. John and Anne had taken it to a new level.
When I left the shop that day, I did not know that we would meet again so soon. That summer I traveled to Richmond, Virginia to attend the American Cheese Society’s Annual Conference. Here one could find cheese judging competitions, educational seminars, the famed “Certified Cheese Professional Exam”, and was well attended by cheese producers, distributors, importers, enthusiasts, and of course, lots of cheesemongers….and it seemed everywhere I turned, John and Anne were right there soaking up all this conference had to offer.
John had not only entered his cheese for the judging competition, but he was there to have his cheese knowledge tested by the Certified Cheese Professional (ACS CCP) Exam.
While John became an ACS CCP, I would go on to learn just how much this young couple had accomplished.
Both John and Anne are Ohio natives, but it was while they were living in New York that the seeds of producing their own cheese someday were planted. Once John graduated from The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, he went to work at a creamery making cheese all while taking a Cheese Making Course from the University of Vermont.
The time was right and the couple returned to their native Ohio to get their business started. While the “Creamery” part of Black Radish was an important one, it did not necessarily start first. John had an idea for creating preserves that used only fruit that was picked in season, and would be created in small batches.
They were on to something, as their original preserve “Billionaire” - An intensely concentrated blend of strawberries, rhubarb, Beaujolais wine reduction, and vanilla bean, was a hit and their collection of fruit preserves started receiving national recognition by winning three Good Food Awards.
With these accolades, they knew that their dream of producing cheese was not far behind.
Black Radish Creamery’s - Bankston
Up until the summer of 2016, they had been selling their products at local farmer’s markets, when the opportunity to open a cheese shop in the Historic North Market came about. They jumped at the opportunity, as this food hall is one of the best (and oldest) in the country and drew in crowds from miles around.
It started off as a fine cheese shop…It just didn’t have any of their cheese yet. This all changed in 2017 with the introduction of “Bankston” – A Camembert style cheese that has a fresh, buttery flavor.
John continued to hone his cheese making craft and today they have a number of different styles and ages of fine cheeses. Here are just a few of their current offerings:
Black Radish Creamery’s - Shenanigans
“Bandit Red Cheddar” - A vibrant raw milk cheddar that is smooth, savory, and has a delicious buttermilk tang. A great melter! – Aged 6 months
“Shenanigans” – A raw milk (Winter Milk) tomme-style cheese that has a rind that has been rubbed with organic charcoal & olive oil. Cave-aged for a minimum of 8 months.
“Buckhorn” – A raw milk (Summer Milk) tomme-style cheese that received 2nd place at the Ohio State Fair – Aged 8 months and “Buckhorn Reserve”, which has been aged a full year
“Charlie’s Legend” - Their first official raw milk cheddar, that just happens to be a Traditional Bandaged Cheddar - Aged 8 months in their cheese cave
Raclette – An alpine style cheese that has a nutty and creamy texture (try it served hot at their shop!)
“Hand-stretched mozzarella” - Every week during the summer (Seasonal) they hand stretch these little pillows of deliciousness. A perfect partner to those heirloom tomatoes and fresh basil that are in peak season right now.
At this point of the story, I looked back over all the products that they produce and realize that they are local, the freshest possible and that these products are the truest sense of Terrior (A taste of place) that I have found outside of Europe. Their attention to detail and to their community should be applauded.
This point was even further validated when I learned that they had created several cheeses soaked in local beer from Three Tigers Brewing Company, and that all of the proceeds went to the Patrick Gangwer Brewers Apprentice Scholarship Fund! Patrick loved beer, he was the Head Brewer at Three Tigers Brewing, he was a father of three, and was 41 when he passed away in 2019.
I could not travel to Ohio to write this story, so I asked John and Anne to help bring Ohio to me, and ultimately share with you a very special and unique story of Ohio, love, hard work, and yes, of course, cheese making and cheesemongering. Thank you John and Anne for the samples that you provided for this story.
On a personal note, my family lived in Mendon, Ohio. They were married there, raised their families there, worked the land, and were buried there. There is a part of Ohio (and their State Motto) that is still within me and always will be. Driving across the state of Ohio always reminded me of the lyrics from America the Beautiful…
Oh beautiful, for spacious skies
For amber waves of grain
For purple mountain majesties
Above the fruited plain
More recently, John and Anne have opened a second cheese shop location, as well as a production facility, but that will have to wait for my next visit…I hope that it’s not long before I can return.
I will simply close with a quote from John and Anne:
“An obsession with good food and great ingredients is at the heart of everything we do…All along, our greatest intention has always been, and continues to be, to provide people with the kind of outstanding food that has fueled our biggest dreams and fondest memories — food made with love, science, and soul”. - John & Anne Reese - Creators of Black Radish Creamery
Well said, my friends! Happy Belated Anniversary to you both!
Until next week,
Trevor
John and Anne Reese of Black Radish Creamery – Photo courtesy of Anne!
